Top tips: SIX of the best Scottish Winter MOUNTAINEERING routes. PART TWO: Ridges, I-III
Winter is Scotland is one of the great proving grounds for both the budding and competent mountaineer. The combination of arctic weather and proximity of the sea means that dream conditions are often there today and gone tomorrow. This makes the successful ascent of any route during the harsh winter all the more poignant. This is my second article in this series, focusing on ridges.
I’ve spent some time considering what makes the perfect winter route, conditions obviously play a major part to every experience but other than that for me it comes back every time to line. Line is hard to define; in summer and winter harder routes wander all over the place, but easier lines tend to follow more linear features. These linear features are more easily defined as ridges or gullies. Looking at my selections, popping out within a short distance of the summit seem to be key requirement too.
These then are my top SIX, weighted towards the lower end of the scale, some won’t agree with my selections and I can’t claim to have done them all but be sure if not they are high on my hit list!
I – Beinn Alligin, main ridge traverse, Torridon
The North West of Scotland is a largely untouched jewel in UK mountaineering; the sheer distance from most population centres, lack of many facilities and difficulty in predicting conditions mean that most people will rarely venture up. Whilst Skye and Torridon are more frequently visited in summer, even as a winter residents of Glencoe we infrequently go up here. The days I’ve had though remain etched in my mind for wildness and sheer brilliant mountaineering.
Beinn Alligin (which means ‘Mountain of Beauty’ in gaelic) comprises two munros, Sgurr Mor and Tom na Gruagaich and although the easiest of the 3 main ridges in Torridon still feels suitably airy.
From the parking 10 minutes outside Torridon village, you follow the major stream north east on a good foot path until a footbridge allows the path to head north and rather uphill towards the first summit. The scrambling gets gradually more difficult over the Horns without becoming hard until the broader summit of Sgurr Mor is reached. Dependent on the snow conditions the trickiest part is over but the more aesthetic journey begins as you cross major gully lines joining the ridge. A further steep pull with some easier scarmbling gains the Tom na Gruagaich summit and an easier descent.
Becky on our way into Beinn Alligin, Spring 2013. The ridge is just clear as the skyline
I – North East ridge of Angels Peak, Cairngorms
This is probably the most remote tick on the list and the 4000 feet summits of the Cairngorms are a serious undertaking in winter. The approach to the base of this route is long and arduous and is best saved for later in the season when you have more daylight. Most people will start from the Sugar Bowl car park at the edge of Glenmore forest to the north. From there you pass through the Chalamain gap and continue up into the Lairig Ghru. Passing the (likely frozen) pools at the Linn of Dee, it’s still a long way down and then right in to Garbh Coire. The ridge now rises above you onto the top of the plateau. Firstly head up to Lochain Uaine which involves some careful route choice to be on the least steep ground. From the lochain, there are 300 metres of vertical ridge to ascend mostly straightforward grade 1 ground to the summit of Sgor an Lochain Uaine and the pinnacle of a lot of hard work.
It’s still however a long way from home and requires a bit a urgency to avoid walking home in darkness. From the summit the best route is to turn north and follow the plateau along on to Braeriach. This is a place to have your wits about you especially in poor visibility as the cornices that hang from the corrie rim can be 10 metres wide - stay away from the edge! Thankfully nearly 6 kilometres can be travelled without any significant ascent or descent until the slopes of Sron na Larige led you back down to the Lairig Ghru and back through the Chalamain gap. A long journey which will feed the rat for a while!
I/II - Forcan Ridge, Glen Shiel
Glen Shiel is frequently visited by mountaineers many who are largely unaware of the possibilities as they travel through it’s wide valley on the way to Skye. Several of the routes like this one and the ‘Brothers ridge’ are set back and invisible from the road.
The Forcan ridge is often in reliable condition despite it’s proximity to the sea due to it’s high north facing elevation. It’s a steep pull up from the parking in lower Glen Shiel. The ridge itself its sheer and involves a tricky step and down climb before it eases. Most people continue on to the Munro of ‘the Saddle before descending south east to Bealach Coire Mhalagain and an easier romp back down into the Glen.
Approaching the start of the Forcan Ridge, Glen Shiel. Credit: Rebecca Coles
I/II - the traverse of the Black Carls, Beinn Eighe, Torridon
This route has been on my tick list for a long time so was one of stand out days from a difficult season in 2020. The traverse unusually does not cross any munros although the peaks are munro height. This route starts with a easy and fairly lovely walk along a stream line dotted with scots pines. Soon the path on to the hill becomes less distinctive and the route head up hill on to the summit of Creag Dhubh. From the here the fun starts as the ridge narrows and becomes rockier and you cross a few sharper cruxy sections. The final one is the most difficult and dependent on the snow build up, most will appreciate a rope. The summit of Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe is a short distance away and is one of the Munro tops of Beinn Eighe. At this point, you can continue along onto the main bulk of Beinn Eighe or descend to the east back to the start. Pure quality.
Breaking trail on the start of the Black Carls, spring 2020. Credit: Jamie Waddington
Me, questing up the crux. Credit: Jamie Waddington
Probably one of the best known scrambles in Scotland, it becomes an exceptional challenge in winter. The underfoot snow conditions are key together with low winds. If the snow is too powdery it can be a tricky, insecure wade so best left for good neve. The other challenge tends to be logistical as this is a trip best completed as a one way linear journey without a slog alongside the fairly dangerously busy A82. Most people will start their traverse from ‘the study’ and climb Am Bodach before heading east. This way commits the traverser to a few down climbs which often have abseil tat on and is a better way to go for most. Slowly working along the ridge around various pinnacles and narrowings the ground broadens as you reach Sgorr nan Fionnaidh. From here various options exist as a descent depending on snow and avalanche conditions. Option 1 is due south back to the A82. Option 2 (heading towards the Pap of Glencoe) is longer but often much safer from an avalanche perspective and avoids descending steep ground on tired legs. Either way finishing up in the Clachaig Inn, Boots bar is a great way to celebrate one of the best winter ridges in Mainland UK.
Start of the ridge, winter 2017. Credit: Rebecca Coles
Max Hunter hard at work. Credit: Rebecca Coles
III – North east ridge of Aonach Beag
This is the one line on the list I haven’t done; it’s tricky to get to despite the nearby gondola on Aonach Mor but I’m reliably informed it’s one of the best routes of it’s grade in the Highlands. From the top of Aonach Mor you descend due south to the col between the two Aonachs. From there you head down a broad gully to the east. This slope is often loaded so it is essential you check the avalanche situation before descending to the base of the ridge, which is then followed to the summit of the mountain. This is an extremely pure line so therefore ticks one of the most important boxes!
The ridge in profile from Aonach Mor, winter 2018. Credit: Rory Shaw, Snowdonia Mountaineering
Rory enjoying himself. Credit: Jo Boyd
The alternatives to this list are numerous but these options are well known to provide excellent days out for obvious reasons -
I - The Ring of Steall (Mamores), CMD Arete (Ben Nevis), the North ridge of Stob Ban
I/II - Fiacalli ridge (Cairngorms)
II - Traverse of Liathach (Torridon), Dorsal Arete (Glencoe), East ridge of Beinn Chaorainn, Ledge route (Ben Nevis), Golden Oldie (Aonach Mor)
II/III - Curved Ridge (Buachaille Etive Mor)